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Chikankari, the exquisite and delicate embroidery form from Lucknow, India, is an enduring symbol of elegance and craftsmanship. Rooted in Persian influences and popularized during the Mughal era, this intricate hand embroidery is traditionally done on light fabrics like muslin, cotton, georgette, or silk. Over the years, chikankari has evolved into a variety of distinct stitching styles and motifs, each contributing to its timeless charm. Among the many techniques, some of the most notable include Tepchi, Bakhiya, Phanda, Murri, Keel Kangan, Hool, and the elaborate Jaal designs, such as Half Jaal and Full Jaal. Each of these stitches carries its own identity and adds unique character to the final piece.
1. Tepchi: The Foundation Stitch
Tepchi is one of the simplest and most basic forms of chikankari. It is a long, running stitch worked in a straight line using six strands of thread. Often used as an outlining method, tepchi serves as a foundational stitch in many designs and provides a frame for more intricate patterns. Despite its simplicity, when used strategically, tepchi adds a clean and linear elegance to the fabric, often seen in borders and base outlines of motifs.
2. Bakhiya: The Shadow Work
Bakhiya, also known as shadow work, is among the most iconic and visually distinctive styles in chikankari. This technique involves stitching on the reverse side of the fabric so that the thread creates a shadow-like effect on the front. There are two main types: Ulti Bakhiya (reverse shadow work) and Seedhi Bakhiya (straight shadow work). This style gives a subtle depth and sophistication, often used for filling floral and paisley motifs.
3. Phanda and Murri: The Knot Work
Phanda and Murri are tiny knot-like stitches used primarily to create the centers of flowers and fine detailing. Phanda consists of small, millet-shaped knots, while Murri is a more elongated version resembling rice grains. These stitches bring a three-dimensional effect to the embroidery and are crucial in adding texture and realism to floral patterns. The delicate precision required to make uniform knots showcases the artisan’s skill and control.
4. Keel Kangan and Hool: Fine Detailing
Keel Kangan involves intricate floral motifs that look like petals or buds, usually stitched in a circular motion. Hool, on the other hand, is a fine eyelet stitch used to create flower centers. It begins by punching a small hole in the fabric and is then surrounded by thread embroidery to form a flower-like shape. These stitches are perfect for adding intricate accents to larger motifs.
5. Half Jaal and Full Jaal: The Masterpieces
Jaal refers to an all-over net or mesh-like pattern spread across the fabric. In chikankari, this is one of the most time-consuming and labor-intensive techniques.
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Full Jaal: This covers the entire fabric with dense and interconnected floral or geometric motifs. It often combines several stitch types like bakhiya, phanda, murri, and keel kangan, creating a rich, tapestry-like effect. Full jaals are known for their opulence and are typically reserved for lehengas, sarees, and dupattas.
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Half Jaal: As the name suggests, this style features embroidery on only half or selective portions of the fabric. It offers a balanced look, blending intricate detailing with open space, ideal for casual or semi-formal attire.
Chikankari is more than just embroidery—it is a celebration of heritage, skill, and patience. From the linear elegance of tepchi to the intricate fullness of full jaals, each stitch tells a story of artistry passed down through generations. As fashion continues to evolve, chikankari remains timeless, adapting to contemporary designs while retaining its classical essence. The various forms of chikankari offer something unique for every admirer of fine craftsmanship.
